Terroir in Translation: Portfolio Tasting with Anfors & Smaragd
This article is also published on Dutch Wine Apprentice, where I regularly contribute wine event reports and producer profiles.On a bright early November day, two leading Dutch wine importers joined forces to host a portfolio tasting at the stunning Hotel Karel V in Utrecht. Co-organized by Anfors Imperial and Smaragd Wijnen, the event featured numerous winemakers across both portfolios, offering a balanced mix of historic names and rising newcomers.Instead of a masterclass style where you may spend a long time on a single producer, this setup allowed attendees to move at their own pace—interviewing winemakers and tasting wines in the order they preferred. The selection was more than we expected, particularly with some new discoveries for us.In this post, I highlight the most memorable producers and wines from the afternoon.📍 Who should read this article: Wine enthusiasts interested in terroir-driven European wines Professionals seeking new producers outside the mainstream Those curious about natural and biodynamic winemaking approaches Anyone interested in the stories behind small-production estates Hunter|McKirdy: Terroir-driven Newcomers in AlsaceJolene Hunter and Paul McKirdy launched their estate in 2023 after working at Zind-Humbrecht, where Hunter served as Export Director and McKirdy worked as Chef de Cave. The couple farms 3.5 hectares on early Jurassic limestone-marl soils in Zellenberg, with vines averaging over 45 years old.Tasting their wines reveals salinity, crunchy fruits, solid structure, alcohol maintained in the low 12% range, and a focused finish. The wines bear little resemblance to typical Alsace profiles. Instead, they evoke Jura. This makes sense: the terroir is said to mirror Sud Revermont in Jura. Their choice of Vin de France over AOC Alsace Grand Cru reflects a philosophy of freedom from conventional expectations.Harvest Philosophy and WinemakingHunter shared some of their choices for expressing terroir during the tasting. Harvest timing is determined through extensive sampling, with the team prioritizing optimal fruit expression, acidity, and focus rather than potential alcohol. They maintain rigorous sorting standards, rejecting any botrytis or shriveled berries.Grapes are pressed gently in wooden basket presses for 8-10 hours—what they call “Champagne pressing.” Fermentation occurs spontaneously in old Burgundian barrels over 10 years old. The estate integrates some biodynamic elements, though it is not certified.For those curious about biodynamics, here is an intriguing story. Hunter and McKirdy employ extended maceration lasting 29.5 days, described as a “full lunar cycle.” They observe a distinctive tannin evolution: the first two weeks progress normally, the third week shows excessive extraction (”What have I done? Gone way too far, too tannic”), but by the fourth week, tannins soften and fill out.Tasting Notes:Samares et Strobiles (Pinot Gris) 2023 | 12.5%This Pinot Gris is an orange wine in style, with whole bunch fermentation. The color is pale red rather than orange, with tannins served from a decanter. Exciting and playful wine with another level of depth and complexity.Crunchy red cherry, cranberry, orange peel, undergrowth, leaf, stony minerality. A hint of wood notes accentuates the fruitiness. Juicy acidity with tannins, reminiscent of Pinot Noir from cool climates.Le Jardin de la Source (Pinot Blanc) 2023 | 12.5%“It must be hard to imagine Pinot Blanc as the top white cuvée,” Hunter says with a smile, “but for us, it offers structure and possibility and complexity, Pinot Blanc is the most interesting wine.”Pure aromas of white and yellow flowers, citrus, crushed shell. The medium-bodied palate is linear and austere yet refined and elegant, with a focused finish showing salinity. Aging potential.Casa Lebai: Recovering Tradition in Ribera del DueroBrothers Rodrigo and Asier Calvo founded Casa Lebai in 2019 in Gumiel de Mercado, Ribera del Duero. Their family has been connected to wine for generations. Their parents started a winery where both brothers worked as winemakers. But in 2019, they decided to break away and recover the traditional way of making wine in their area. This decision came from a concern about losing heritage. Old underground cellars and stone lagares were being abandoned. For the Calvo brothers, using these historic spaces again was the best way to preserve them.Historic Infrastructure and PhilosophyCasa Lebai works with three small vineyards. The oldest vines date back to 1936. The estate uses 17th century granite lagares for foot-treading and 15th century underground cellars for aging. These are not decorative choices. The brothers believe these old structures help them make wines that express terroir and variety in a way that modern facilities cannot.Their philosophy stands apart from typical Ribera del Duero styles. They do not pursue overripe fruit, heavy extraction, or new oak. Instead, they focus on freshness and balance. “Wine is a refreshing liquid,” Asier explained during the tasting. They harvest for phenolic maturation without waiting for the grapes to become overripe. The winemaking is simple: normal alcoholic fermentation, then one year of aging in large old barrels. They deliberately use very big vessels—large foudres rather than barriques—to allow gentle oxidation without adding makeup. “It’s not important for us the time in the oak,” Asier said. “We don’t try to make reserva or crianza. We try to make terroir wines.”This approach extends to their choice of varieties. One vineyard contains Bobal, which is technically not allowed in Ribera del Duero. But because the vines were planted before 1982, when appellation rules were established, Casa Lebai can legally use them. This creates field blends that reflect the true historical composition of the area. All three wines are made the same way, so we can taste the differences between sites, varieties, and terroir without winemaking interference.Tasting Notes:Albillo Mayor “La Nava” 2021This wine comes from a 1936 vineyard where Albillo Mayor represents 80 to 85 percent of the planting. The rest is Castellana Blanca and Pirulés. Asier called Albillo Mayor “the father variety of Tempranillo,” though he admitted he wasn’t entirely sure about this claim. What struck us was his comment that Albillo Mayor is “really neutral” when young. If you try to make a fresh, primary-style wine with this variety, you will get almost no nose. But if you give it time—aging in barrel and then a year in bottle—it starts to express itself.The 2021 showed spicy flavors and aged fruit rather than primary fruit notes. There was an oiliness on the palate and a mineral tension. The finish was amazingly long. High refreshing acidity gives it structure and aging potential. Asier said it could age for five to ten years. Even at this young stage, the wine already showed complexity and depth.Red Blend “El Portillo” 2022This wine comes from the same 1936 vineyard as the Albillo Mayor. The blend includes Tinto Fino, Garnacha, and Valenciano (the local name for Bobal). Asier explained that Bobal and Garnacha together represent about 15 percent of the blend, with Tempranillo comprising the remaining 85 percent. The wine aged for one year in large barrels.We found this red to be super refreshing and elegant. It had structure and texture but was not heavy or extracted. The fruit was red and precise. The acidity carried through to a long, clean finish. This wine felt completely different from the typical Ribera del Duero profile. There was neither overripeness nor new oak sweetness. Instead, alive and pure.100% Tinto Fino “Matadiablos” 2021The third wine came from a younger vineyard planted in 1997. This one is pure Tinto Fino. Rodrigo warned us that it would be “totally different” from what people expect from Ribera del Duero. He was right. The wine was not borderless, not heavily oaked, not very concentrated. It was refreshing, structured, and textured with a finish that continued to the end. The tannins were present but refined. The acidity kept everything lifted.Weingut Bründlmayer: Grüner Veltliner Mastery from Austria’s KamptalWilli Bründlmayer runs one of Austria’s most respected estates in Langenlois, Kamptal. The estate covers approximately 80 to 90 hectares and has farmed organically since 2015. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling form the core of production, with wines ranging from entry-level regional bottlings to single-vineyard Erste Lage wines from sites like Heiligenstein and Lamm.Terroir-First WinemakingThe estate’s approach emphasizes terroir transparency. Wines are vinified in stainless steel with whole-cluster pressing, sedimentation without pumping, spontaneous fermentation, and extended lees contact. Oak plays a role only in reserve-style wines, where large old foudres add structure without masking fruit.Thomas Klinger, Head of Marketing and Sales at Bründlmayer, led us through the tasting. We discussed white pepper aromas in Grüner Veltliner—a characteristic many people associate with the variety. But he was clear: white pepper is one element, not the defining element. “Grüner Veltliner has so much more to offer than just pepper,” he explained. The estate’s focus is on balance, minerality, and the expression of Kamptal’s diverse soils—primary rock, loess, and clay—rather than chasing a single aromatic marker.Tasting Notes:Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm 1ÖTW 2022Ried Lamm classified as Erste Lage—First Growth—in the Austrian system. The vineyard lies east of Langenlois on southwest-facing slopes with limestone-rich clay soils. Lamm has been recognized for centuries as one of Central Europe’s finest Grüner Veltliner sites. This is a reserve-style wine, and the must ferments in 300-liter Austrian oak barrels, before maturing in large wooden foudres.The wine is complex and refined. The nose showed stone fruit, citrus, and white flowers with subtle spice. On the palate, the wine had weight and precision. The wine felt complete and balanced with a long, clean finish. This was Grüner Veltliner with both immediate appeal and the structure to age.Riesling Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW 2023Heiligenstein is Bründlmayer’s most famous vineyard and one of the great Riesling sites in Austria. The vineyard sits on 250-million-year-old desert sandstone with volcanic components—a soil type unique to this single site. This geology creates wines of remarkable intensity and mineral character. The vineyard is protected as a nature reserve, where the finest fruit ripens high on the slope.This Riesling showed firm, deep citrus aromas with herbal nuances and hints of peach. The palate was taut and precise with focused acidity. There was nothing superfluous in the structure—just pure Riesling fruit, bright acidity, and mineral tension. The wine felt alive and electric.Champagne Michel Gonet: Grower Champagne from Le Mesnil-sur-OgerMichel Gonet is a family-run Champagne house based in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The estate has been in the family for seven generations, founded in 1802. The estate farms approximately 38 hectares across multiple sites, with 80 percent planted to Chardonnay and 20 percent to Pinot Noir.Freshness Through Controlled DisgorgementThe estate’s winemaking philosophy centers on terroir expression and freshness. During the tasting, we learned about their unique approach to disgorgement and dosage. Michel Gonet disgorges only one thousand bottles at a time throughout the year. This allows them to adjust dosage levels for each disgorgement based on how the wine has evolved. As the wine spends more time in contact with the lees, it gains richness, requiring less dosage. The goal is to provide the freshest possible Champagne to the market. When consumers choose to enjoy it is their decision. “Our role is to provide you the freshest Champagne possible,” he explained. Once a wine is disgorged, it stops improving and starts transforming. By disgorging small batches continuously, they ensure every bottle reaches customers at peak freshness with precisely calibrated dosage.Tasting Notes:Les 3 Terroirs Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2020This wine represents three distinct terroirs in equal parts. One third comes from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, where the estate holds 14 hectares. Another third comes from Montgueux, in the Aube that the Champagne trade calls “the Montrachet of Champagne,” with silex, limestone, and clay for its soil on the south facing slopes, making powerful wines. The final third comes from Vindey, meaning ‘wine of the god,’ an appellation south of Sézanne known for ripe fruit character. The wine ferments in stainless steel at 12°C and ages five years on lees before receiving 4 grams of dosage.This Champagne is refined and elegant. The nose showed fresh citrus, apple, peach with subtle tropical, and white floral notes rounded by biscuit, hazelnuts and toast. Long lees aging gives it a creamy texture balanced by refreshing acidity.Grand Cru Mesnil-sur-Oger Millésime 2015 Blanc de BlancsThis vintage Champagne comes from a single lieu-dit called Les Hautes Mottes in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, located next to the renowned Les Chétillons parcel. The site sits on pure chalk soils. The wine ferments in stainless steel at 12°C and ages six years on lees before disgorgement with zero dosage.This wine has more weight and richness than the Les 3 Terroirs. The nose showed ripe citrus, brioche, and toasted almonds. On the palate, the wine had a creamy texture balanced by razor-sharp acidity. The chalky minerality was present throughout. The finish was persistent with layers of fruit, yeast, and mineral notes.Weingut Pflüger: Altitude-Driven Elegance in the PfalzAlexander Pflüger represents the younger generation of a family estate whose history stretches for 200 years in Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz. His father Bernd pioneered organic viticulture in the region starting in the 1980s. In 2008, father and son converted the entire 38-hectare estate to biodynamic practices, achieving Demeter certification.Biodynamic PhilosophyThe estate’s philosophy centers on minimal intervention and allowing terroir to express itself. Alexander avoids fining agents, aromatic yeasts, and enzymes, emphasizing time, patience, and sensitivity instead. The vineyards feature biodiversity with fig trees, cypresses, sandstone walls, and grasses growing between vine rows. The estate produces its own compost, treating the vineyard as a living organism.Tasting Notes:Riesling “Fuchsmantel” 2021Fuchsmantel sits at nearly 300 meters elevation on pure Buntsandstein. “Quite high in altitude, almost 300 meters, which means the season is a bit longer,” Alexander explained. “You always have lower alcohol level, but full concentration, a lot of taste, a lot of aromatics, and a nice acidity.” The red sandstone itself contributes additional acidity, creating wines that are fresh, light, and focused.The 2021 showed bright citrus and green apple on the nose with subtle herbal notes. The palate was crisp and mineral-driven, with a firm acid spine. Despite the freshness, there was no lack of fruit intensity or texture. The wine felt complete and balanced, with a long, clean finish showing stony minerality.Riesling “Ungsteiner Herrenberg” 2021Herrenberg ranks among the most prestigious vineyards in the Mittelhaardt, classified as Grosse Lage—Grand Cru. The vineyard faces southeast on protected slopes, surrounded by old sandstone walls that store heat. Vines planted in the 1980s. Unlike the Buntsandstein found elsewhere, Herrenberg consists of loess-clay with high limestone content, creating wines with both power and minerality.“Very much exposed to the sun, so always very full-bodied and rich,” Alexander noted. “But 21 has been a colder vintage, so you will have a nice acidity as well.” This tension between the site’s natural power and the vintage’s restraint created something special.The nose showed ripe stone fruit—peach and apricot—with citrus brightness and floral lift. On the palate, the wine had weight and texture, but the 2021 acidity kept everything lifted and precise. The limestone minerality came through clearly on the finish, which was long and layered. This was Riesling with both immediate appeal and the structure to age for years.What This Tasting RevealsWhat stood out across this tasting was how each producer, in their own way, is moving toward clearer expressions of terroir. Hunter and McKirdy chose Vin de France to step outside appellation rules and let their sites speak more freely. Casa Lebai works with old co-planted vines and historic vessels, using winemaking not to decorate the wine but to reveal what the land offers. Michel Gonet adjusts dosage levels to stay closer to transparent expressions of place. Alexander Pflüger follows biodynamic certification while keeping terroir at the center. Bründlmayer’s wines show strong vineyard character tied directly to Kamptal’s soils.These are different paths, but they point in the same direction. In an era where marketing often overshadows substance, these producers remind us that wine’s true value lies in its connection to place. Their wines are excitingly beautiful—not because of what has been added, but because of what has been preserved.How to obtain these wines in the Netherlands:The wines featured in this tasting are available through Anfors Imperial and Smaragd Wijnen in the Netherlands. Both importers focus on terroir-driven, small-production estates and offer delivery throughout the country.I would like to thank all the producers for sharing inspiring stories and the team of Anfors Imperial and Smaragd Wijnen for inviting us to this memorable tasting.
Learn more
Sake Interview #10: Kenbishi; The 500-Year Guardian of Japan's Unchanging Aged Sake
The brewery that makes only aged sake, maintains the woodworking shop, and lets taste speak louder than marketing
Learn more
Sake Interview #9: Visiting a Female Toji at Mukai Brewery in Another Kyoto
The Road to the Brewery Closest to the Sea of Japan
Learn more
Sake Interview #8: ZAKU — A Mie Brewery's Journey to the World Stage
Redefining Japanese Sake for the World
Learn more
Sake Interview #7: Akishika Brewery
Believing in Grain-to-bottle in Nose, Osaka: dry junmai and genshu, aging first, flavor over perfume Rice for
Learn more
Sake Interview #6: Hanatomoe (Miyoshino Brewery)
Wild Yeast and High Acidity Define Sake's New Frontier
Learn more
Sake Interview #4: Hakushika—The Serendipitous Discovery
How an Established Nada Brewery Redefined Aged Nihonshu
Learn more
Sake Interview #3: Kirei Shuzo—The 92% Polishing Ratio Revolution: Bone Dry Sake
Master Brewer Masahiro Nishigaki on Why Less Polishing Means More Flavor
Learn more
Sake Atlas #3: Nara Prefecture - Where the Gods First Sipped Nihonshu
From Medieval Monasteries to Modern Glasses: The Birthplace of Japanese Sake Innovation
Learn more
Sake Atlas #2: Niigata Prefecture - Where Snow Becomes Poetry
**🇯🇵 日本語版は記事の下部にあります / Japanese version available below**This is part of our comprehensive guide exploring Japan's 20 most important sake-producing regions, helping sake enthusiasts understand how geography and local traditions shape each area's unique brewing style. Today, we explore Niigata Prefecture—the heartland of Tanrei Karakuchi.I'm Kazumi, a DipWSET wine and sake educator based in Amsterdam. With roots in Japanese and European food cultures, I write this post to bridge the gap, translating sake into the language of wine professionals. Each week, I explore one topic to demystify sake, deepen your understanding, and equip you with practical language for the floor or table.The Land Where Winter Writes in WaterSome decades ago, I knew Niigata for one thing: powder snow, making annual pilgrimages from Tokyo with my snowboard to chase the deep powder of Echigoyuzawa and Naeba. Now, I virtually return for something even more captivating—this particular style of Japanese sake.Picture: It's February in Niigata Prefecture, and the world has disappeared under a blanket of snow so deep that houses seem to float like islands in a white ocean. The silence is profound, broken only by the occasional creak of bamboo bending under winter's weight. But beneath this frozen surface, something extraordinary is happening. The snow—up to four meters deep in some places—is slowly transforming into what sake lovers around the world recognize as liquid poetry.Welcome to Niigata Prefecture, Japan's undisputed sake kingdom. With 101 breweries—No. 1 in Japan—scattered across its snow-covered landscape, Niigata produces more high-quality sake (specially designated sake) than any other prefecture in Japan. But numbers alone don't tell the story. What makes Niigata special isn't just quantity—it's the revolutionary philosophy that emerged from these snowy valleys and fundamentally changed how the world thinks about sake.This is the birthplace of tanrei karakuchi—light-bodied, dry sake that cuts through the palate like a mountain breeze. Clean, crisp, and impossibly pure, this style didn't just define Niigata's identity; it sparked Japan's ginjo-shu boom in the 1980s and rewrote the rules of sake appreciation. In a country where sake was once heavy, sweet, and often rough, Niigata whispered a different possibility: What if sake could be as clean and refreshing as the snowmelt that nourishes it?The Geography of PerfectionNiigata sits like a crescent moon along Japan's western coast, its face turned toward the Sea of Japan, its back pressed against the mountains that trap the winter storms rolling in from Siberia. This positioning isn't just geographic coincidence—it's the foundation of everything that makes Niigata sake extraordinary.The prefecture's relationship with winter is intimate and essential. When those Siberian storms slam into the Japanese Alps, they dump snow with religious regularity. The locals have learned to read the sky like a sacred text, knowing that each snowflake carries the promise of next year's sake. This isn't just weather—it's the slow, patient process of creating the world's purest brewing water.The melting snow doesn't rush toward the sea; instead, it seeps slowly through layers of ancient rock and mineral-rich soil, emerging months later as crystalline spring water. This natural filtration system creates water so pure that it becomes the invisible backbone of every bottle of Niigata sake. In addition to the abundant melting water, Niigata's fertile clay soil, blessed with abundant nutrients, has earned the region its nickname: "The Land of Rice."It's the perfect storm of geography, climate, and time. The Sea of Japan provides humidity and temperature regulation, while the mountains create the natural barrier that traps the snow and moderates the climate. The result is a brewing environment so ideal that it seems designed by sake gods themselves.Pioneers of the CraftNiigata's sake story isn't just one of natural gifts—it's a tale of innovation and determination. The prefecture was quietly revolutionizing sake production with a combination of scientific rigor and artistic vision.Central to this story are human, the Echigo Toji¹ , the legendary guild of master brewers who elevated Niigata sake to art form. These craftsmen, part of one of Japan's three great brewing guilds, carried their knowledge like sacred flame from brewery to brewery, season to season. Their techniques, passed down through generations, created the foundation for what would become the distinctive Niigata style.Additionally in the early 20th century when Niigata established Japan's first prefecture-level Sake Brewing Laboratory. This laboratory became the birthplace of techniques that would eventually spread throughout Japan, establishing Niigata as the intellectual capital of sake brewing, including the development of Gohyakumangoku rice in 1950s. Gohyakumangoku, whose name literally means "five million koku" (referring to the prefecture's rice production capacity), has large grains and low protein content made it perfect for the polished, refined styles that would become Niigata's signature.Recognition reached its pinnacle in 2022 with the designation of GI Niigata—a geographic indication that officially acknowledged what sake lovers had known for decades: Niigata sake occupies a unique and protected place in the world of Japanese brewing.¹ Toji System: The traditional Japanese master brewer system where skilled craftsmen (toji) lead seasonal brewing teams. The three major toji guilds are Echigo Toji (Niigata), Nanbu Toji (Iwate), and Tanba Toji (Hyogo). These masters typically work seasonally, traveling between breweries during winter brewing season, carrying centuries-old techniques and maintaining quality standards across different sake producers.The Philosophy of Tanrei KarakuchiTo understand Niigata sake, you must first understand tanrei karakuchi—a phrase that translates roughly as "light-bodied and dry" but encompasses a philosophy that revolutionized Japanese brewing.The concept emerged from Niigata's unique relationship with its environment. The pristine snowmelt water naturally lends itself to clean, crisp sake. Tanrei karakuchi challenged everything the sake world thought it knew. Before Niigata's revolution, sake was often heavy, sweet, and warming—perfect for cold winters but limiting in its applications. Niigata proposed something radically different: sake that could be as refreshing as water, as clean as mountain air, and as versatile as wine.This philosophy became the driving force behind Japan's ginjo-shu boom in the 1980s. Ginjo sake, with its high polish ratios and delicate flavors, found its perfect expression in Niigata's approach. The region's brewers discovered that their clean water and refined techniques could create sake of unprecedented elegance and complexity. The style reflects more than just technical innovation—it embodies a cultural shift. In a Japan modernizing rapidly after World War II, Niigata sake offered sophistication without ostentation, complexity without confusion. It was sake for a new generation, approachable yet profound, traditional yet thoroughly modern.Recently, the style has become more diversified, yet you will find the philosophy of tanrei karakuchi in each sake.Featured Japanese Sake: HakkaisanAmong Niigata's pantheon of exceptional sake, Hakkaisan stands as perhaps the most eloquent expression of everything that makes this prefecture special. Named after the sacred mountain that watches over the brewery, this sake embodies the tanrei karakuchi philosophy while pushing the boundaries of what refined sake can achieve.The ProducerHakkaisan Brewery was founded in 1922 by Koichi Nagumo in Minamiuonuma City, Niigata Prefecture, at the foot of sacred Mount Hakkaisan. The brewery celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2022, establishing itself as one of Japan's most respected sake producers. What sets Hakkaisan apart is their unwavering commitment to the "tanrei karakuchi" style—a clean, dry sake that perfectly complements food rather than competing with it.Hakkaisan's philosophy rests on three cornerstones: bringing out the essence of good materials with every possible effort, delivering quality sake to as many people as possible, and honoring their blessed land. They believe the highest quality sake should have fuller body yet remain clear and smooth, never interfering with food. Their commitment to maintaining small batch production of just three tons of rice per tank ensures they never compromise quality for quantity, even as they strive to make premium sake accessible to a wider audience.Production MethodHakkaisan's Junmai Daiginjo combines carefully selected Yamada Nishiki, Gohyakumangoku, and Miyamanishiki rice polished to 45% with the legendary ultra-soft clean water, "Raidensama no Shimizu" spring water from Mount Hakkaisan. Koji-making is their key, so all processes are taken place by hand, followed by the Ginjo method of slow fermentation at low temperatures, allowing rice's natural umami to develop while maintaining the brewery's signature clean, elegant character. Learn more about sake brewing process to understand how this meticulous attention to water quality and fermentation creates Hakkaisan's distinctive balance. Check out this post to support your basic knowledge.Tasting NotesCrystal clear appearance with a beautiful transparent quality that captures light elegantly.Delicate floral notes, subtle pear, clean rice and cotton candy aromas. Exceptional balance on the palate, featuring elegant rice umami, gentle fruit notes of white peach and apple, supported by crisp acidity that keeps the sake refreshing and food-friendly. Ginjo style yet this sake doesn't rely only on the fruity floral aromas, but has body, texture, umami on the palate. Signature clean finish, lingering rice sweetness and a dry, crisp conclusion that invites the next sip without overwhelming the palate. Outstanding.Recent DevelopmentsHakkaisan has been making significant international strides recently, including a high-profile partnership agreement with the Los Angeles Dodgers to create special collaboration products and expand sake's global potential. The brewery has also entered into a capital alliance with Brooklyn Kura in New York, supporting American sake production while exploring the possibility of launching Hakkaisan products made in the United States. How exciting it is to see traditional Japanese craftsmanship inspiring sake production on American soil!Ready to experience this century-old tradition in your glass? Seek out Hakkaisan Junmai Daiginjo at your local premium sake retailer and discover why this perfectly balanced sake has earned devotion from food lovers worldwide. 雪解け水に恵まれた土地：新潟これは日本の20の重要な日本酒生産地域を探るガイドの一部で、地理と地域の伝統が各地域独特の醸造スタイルをどのように形作るかを海外の日本酒愛好家に理解してもらうため、JSAとWSETの知識および公式サイトの情報等を元に作っています。今日は新潟県—現代日本酒文化の中心地を探ります。数十年前、私にとって新潟といえば一つのことしか意味しなかった。パウダースノー。スノーボードを持って東京から毎年巡礼のように通い、越後湯沢や苗場の深いパウダーを追い求めていた。今、私がバーチャルに戻るのは、さらに魅力的な何か—この特別な日本酒のスタイルのためである。こんな場面を想像してほしい。2月の新潟県、世界は雪の毛布の下に消え去り、その深さは家々が白い海に浮かぶ島のように見えるほどである。静寂は深遠で、時折竹が冬の重みに耐えかねて軋む音だけがそれを破る。しかし、この凍てついた表面の下で、特別なことが起こっている。場所によっては4メートルの深さに達する雪が、世界中の日本酒愛好家の求めるものへとゆっくりと変化しているのである。新潟県、日本の紛れもない日本酒王国へようこそ。雪に覆われた風景に散らばる101の醸造所（日本最多）を擁する新潟は、日本のどの県よりも多くの高品質日本酒（特定名称酒）を生産している。しかし、数字だけではその物語を語れない。新潟を特別にしているのは量だけではない—これらの雪深い谷から生まれ、世界の日本酒観を根本的に変えた革命的哲学なのである。ここは淡麗辛口の発祥地、山風のように口中を切り抜ける軽やかで辛口の日本酒が造られる。清潔で、キリッとしていて、驚くほど純粋なこのスタイルは、新潟のアイデンティティを定義しただけでなく、1980年代の日本の吟醸酒ブームに火をつけ、日本酒鑑賞のルールを書き換えた。かつて日本酒が重く、甘く、時に荒々しかった国で、新潟は異なる可能性をささやいた。日本酒がそれを育む雪解け水のように清潔で爽やかになることができるとしたら？雪国が育む日本酒の聖地新潟は日本の西海岸に沿って三日月のように位置し、日本海に面を向け、シベリア方面から吹き込む冬の嵐を捕らえる山々に背を押しつけている。この位置づけは単なる地理的偶然ではない—新潟の日本酒を特別なものにしている。県と冬との関係は親密で不可欠である。シベリアの嵐が日本アルプスにぶつかるため、雪が頻繁に降る。地元の人々は空から気候を読むことを学ぶほど大変だ。とはいえ、雪が酒の８割を占める水につながる大切な存在であり、世界で最も純粋な醸造水を作り出す、ゆっくりとした忍耐強いプロセスなのであることも知っている。雪解け水は海に向かって急ぐことはない。代わりに古代の岩石と鉱物豊富な土壌の層を通してゆっくりと浸透し、数ヶ月後に水晶のような湧水として現れる。この自然濾過システムが、新潟日本酒のすべてのボトルの見えない背骨となるほど純粋な水を作り出すのである。豊富な雪解け水に加えて、栄養豊富な新潟の肥沃な粘土質土壌は、この地域に「米どころ」という愛称も、もたらした。これは単なる農業的偶然ではない。地理、気候、時間の完璧な嵐なのである。日本海が湿度と温度調節を提供し、山々が雪を閉じ込め気候を和らげる自然の壁を作り出している。その結果は、日本酒の神々自身によって設計されたかのように理想的な醸造環境である。技術の先駆者たち新潟の日本酒物語は自然の恵みだけの話ではない—革新と決意の物語である。新潟県は科学と芸術的ビジョンの組み合わせで、静かに日本酒つくりを進化させてきた。この物語の中心にあるのは越後杜氏¹、新潟日本酒を芸術の域まで押し上げた伝説的な杜氏組合である。日本三大杜氏組合の一つである越後杜氏たちは、知識を蔵から蔵へ、シーズンからシーズンへと運んだ。世代を通じて受け継がれた彼らの技術が、新潟スタイルとなるものの基盤を作り出した。さらに20世紀初頭、新潟は日本初の県レベル清酒専門醸造試験場を設立した。この試験場は最終的に日本全国に広がる技術の発祥地となり、1950年代の五百万石米の開発を含め、新潟を日本酒醸造の知的首都として確立した。五百万石は、文字通り「五百万石」（県の米生産能力を指す）を意味し、大粒で低タンパク質含有量が、新潟の代名詞となる精米された洗練されたスタイルに完璧だった。2022年のGI新潟指定で認知は頂点に達した—日本酒愛好家が何十年も知っていたことを公式に認めた地理的表示：新潟日本酒は日本酒業界で保護された地位を占めている。淡麗辛口の哲学新潟日本酒を理解するには、まず淡麗辛口を理解しなければならない—「軽やかで辛口」とおおまかに翻訳されるが、日本醸造を革命化した哲学を包含する言葉である。この概念は新潟の環境との独特な関係から生まれた。純粋な雪解け水は自然に清潔でキリッとした日本酒を生む。淡麗辛口はそれまでの常識に挑戦した。淡麗辛口以前、日本酒はしばしば重く、甘く、温かく—寒い冬には完璧だが、飲まれるシーンが限られていた。新潟は根本的に異なる何かを提案した：水のように爽やかで、山の空気のように清潔で、ワインのように汎用性のある日本酒。この哲学は1980年代の日本の吟醸酒ブームの原動力となった。高精米歩合と繊細な味わいを持つ吟醸酒は、新潟のアプローチで完璧な表現を見出した。地域の醸造家たちは、彼らの清潔な水と洗練された技術が、前例のない優雅さと複雑さを兼ね備えた日本酒を作り出した。このスタイルは単なる技術革新以上のものを反映している—文化的変化を体現している。第二次世界大戦後に急速に近代化する日本で、新潟日本酒は見栄を張らない洗練、混乱のない複雑さを提供した。それは新世代のための日本酒だった。親しみやすいが深遠、伝統的だが徹底的に現代的。最近、スタイルはより多様化しているが、それでも各日本酒に淡麗辛口の哲学を見出すことができる。注目の日本酒：八海山新潟の卓越した日本酒の殿堂の中で、八海山はおそらくこの県を特別にするすべてのものの最も雄弁な語り部だ。醸造所を見守る神聖な山にちなんで名付けられたこの日本酒は、淡麗辛口の哲学を体現しながら、洗練された日本酒が達成できるものの境界を押し広げている。生産者について八海醸造は1922年、新潟県南魚沼市の神聖な八海山の麓で南雲浩一によって設立された。醸造所は2022年に100周年を迎え、日本で最も尊敬される日本酒生産者の一つとしての地位を確立した。八海山を際立たせているのは、「淡麗辛口」スタイル—料理と競争するのではなく完璧に補完する清潔で辛口の日本酒—への揺るぎない信念である。八海山の哲学は三つの礎石に基づいている：あらゆる努力で良い素材の本質を引き出すこと、できるだけ多くの人に品質の高い日本酒を届けること、そして恵まれた土地を尊重すること。彼らは最高品質の日本酒は旨味がありながら清澄で滑らかで、決して料理を邪魔してはならないと信じている。タンクあたりわずか3トンの米という小仕分け生産の維持へは、より幅広い層にプレミアム日本酒をアクセス可能にしようと努力しながらも、量のために品質を決して妥協しないことを示している。この日本酒の造りについて八海山の純米大吟醸は、厳選された山田錦、五百万石、美山錦米を45%まで精米し、八海山からの伝説的な超軟水清水「雷電様の清水」湧水と組み合わせている。麹作りが彼らの鍵なので、すべての工程は手作業で行われ、低温でのゆっくりとした発酵による吟醸製法が続き、醸造所の特徴的な清潔で優雅な性格を保ちながら米の自然な旨味を発達させる。この水質と発酵への細心の注意が八海山の独特なバランスをどのように作り出すかを理解するには、日本酒醸造プロセスを知りたい方はこちらテイスティングノート光を優雅に捉える美しい透明な品質を持つ水晶のような透明感。繊細な花の香り、微かな梨、清潔な米と綿菓子のアロマ。口中での卓越したバランス、優雅な米の旨味、白桃とりんごの優しい果実香、日本酒を爽やかで料理に優しく保つキリッとした酸味によって支えられている。吟醸スタイルでありながら、この日本酒は果実味や花の香りだけに頼らず、口中にボディ、テクスチャー、旨味を持っている。特徴的な清潔な後味、持続する米の甘さと辛口でキリッとした結論が、口中を圧倒することなく次の一口を誘う。卓越している。近年の展開八海山は最近、ロサンゼルス・ドジャースとの注目度の高いパートナーシップ契約を結んで特別コラボレーション商品を作り、日本酒のグローバルな可能性を拡大するなど、国際的に大きな歩みを見せている。醸造所はまた、ニューヨークのブルックリン蔵との資本提携に入り、アメリカでの日本酒生産を支援しながら、アメリカ製の八海山商品発売の可能性を探っている。伝統的な日本の職人技がアメリカの土壌で日本酒生産にインスピレーションを与えているのを見るのは、なんて刺激的なことか！この100年の伝統をあなたのグラスで体験してみたい？世界の日本酒小売や日本食レストランで八海山純米大吟醸を探し、この完璧にバランスの取れた日本酒がなぜ世界中の食通から愛され続けているかを発見してほしい。「世界を組み合わせる：ワイン、日本酒、その他」をお読みいただき、ありがとうございます！いいね、コメント、重ね読み、購読でサポートしていただけると嬉しいです。
Learn more
Sake Atlas #1: Yamanashi Prefecture | Beneath Mount Fuji Along the Samurai Highway
A deep dive into one region together with its sake - where 300 years of Shichiken tradition embraces sparkling innovation
Learn more
“What Is Corpinnat? Spain’s Rising Sparkling Wine + 6 Top Producers to Know”
Meet the Future of Spanish Sparkling: Corpinnat’s Rules, Terroir, and Standout Bottles
Learn more